Café De France: A Pleasant Surprise

It was a cold rainy day on Park Avenue when I stumbled into Café De France. All I wanted was a bowl of warm soup to defrost my bones when it dawned on me that this place was so much more than that.

A brief look at the menu denoted that this place certainly specialized in classic French cooking. Not surprisingly enough for me, the simple soup turned out to be a full-course lunch and an adventure in technique, precision, and refinement.

My companion and I ordered soup and then for appetizers the Terrine and Escargots. The soup was a mushroom base with a burgundy wine reduction. Creamy, smooth, and thick, the soup almost coated my throat warming me up from the inside out. The Terrine was executed perfectly- not-too-thick slices accompanied with toast. If the slices were thick, the Terrine would have overpowered the taste buds due to its dense character. It was savory and texturally semi-smooth. Overall, it was a pretty standard and well presented. The Escargots were the highlight in the appetizer section. They were perfectly cooked and seasoned with butter and herbs. Who knew snails could be remotely comforting? For the faint of heart, I highly recommend to try this establishment’s snails. They will not disappoint. On the downside, the toast that both appetizers came with was a little soggy- quite possibly since it was rainy and humid outside. However, they were a slight distraction in the mouth to an otherwise fine start.

For main course, I thought I would be a little daring and take up any recommendation the server made. He came out with a medium-rare cooked duck breast with a cranberry sauce. I have never tried duck medium-rare and again the execution of the dished that made it quite successful- the duck was sliced to a perfect thickness with a semi-crisp skin and a very pink interior. Furthermore it complemented very well with the tart, semi-sweet cranberry accompaniment. The dish was topped off with a dainty bundle of cooked asparagus. The portion size was modest, but I was already feeling the effects of satiation from the soup and appetizer course. It’s a beautiful thing when your desire to eat delicious food contradicts the logic of the stomach. Please note: Medium-cooked duck is not for everyone… some perceive it as too chewy while others like the smoothness of the duck meat when prepared this way.

For dessert, I opted for an Espresso and a Crème Brûlée. Again, a classic dessert prepared wonderfully- I was especially happy when I found out that the caramelized sugar crust was not just a very thin layer. Rather, I had enough of the delightfully crunchy crust for every single bite of the Brûlée.

IN A NUTSHELL- Your bill will not be cheap, but your mouth will be very educated in classic French dishes after this experience. Set like a traditional small French Café, this place feels comfy in a small setting. Expect good food, prepared with technique and thought, and presented in a clean but stylized manner. For the wine lover, they also carry a modest collection of wines from around the world. A good place for a special weekend lunch.

Guavate: Mediocre except for the Sorrullitos de Queso

This is a classic example where the hype overtakes the experience. I’m a lover of Puerto Rican food. When UrbanSpoon listed this place for its top picks around town, I immediately put it on my wish list. It didn’t matter that this place was on the other side of town- surely, I thought, if the food is expected to be good, the miles don’t count at all.

I researched this place ahead of time as usual. The website had their online menu available and I planned exactly what I wanted to sample from the wide selection of food they offered. Upon arrival, I was regrettably informed that some of the dishes (I wanted the Surrullitos de Maiz but was also informed by the waitress of a few other dishes) that were unavailable. This was not a good start to what I expected a brief but joyous encounter with Guavate.

Upon my server’s suggestion, I opted for the Surrulitos de Queso and some Pastellilos de Carne. The later was nothing to write home about. Rather, it was quite bland- an absolute lack of sazón. Furthermore, the muddled salsa-like dip that it was accompanied only confused my tastebuds even more. A beam of hope appeared with my teeth sank into the Surrulitos de Queso. Slightly crispy, not too greasy, and popping with piping hot cheese, these were the stars of the appetizer course. The light sweetness of the corn imparted addictive synergism with the melted cheese goodness encased in a perfect little package. I was so impressed that I ordered FOUR more orders of this delicious work of craft (you only get 2 small surrulitos per order).

I opted for the Pernil lunch portion and again I was not impressed. If I hadn’t gone there with any expectations, I would’ve reviewed this part of the course as mediocre. However, my tastebuds were anticipating a perfectly cooked, melt-in-your-mouth, pork dish. Instead, I was presented with a moderate portion size with one crispy skin bit to munch on. Granted, this is probably a chicharón amuse-bouche for the lunchtime customer, but the Pernil didn’t upstage the crispy skin. Rather, the skin eclipsed the mediocre Pernil. A tragic (yes, that would be the best word to describe what I felt at that very moment) culinary move that brought the entire eating experience crashing down (if it weren’t for the company, this would have been the finale). The Tostones included in the order were dry and required many sips of water to down one bite. I neither finished my main dish nor requested carry-out boxes- this meal could not have been revived even if a defibrillator was handy.

To round things off, I requested the Tembleque for the both of us. Again, it was average- sweet, dense, and dusted with cinnamon, it was nothing special.

IN A NUTSHELL- Go to snack on the Surrulitos de Queso. Everything else was quite forgetful and unmissed.

Clarkie’s Breakfast/Lunch Diner: This is dive heaven

Clarkie’s is culinary pulp fiction. This place is on a very visible strip of Orange Ave. just about a mile away from downtown. Yet, you’d pass right by it if you didn’t know better. The sign is grungy and advertises orchids for sale. The restaurant looks like a caged hut that has weathered many hurricanes. Upon entering, you notice the small room with really, REALLY tacky furniture. Trust me, it only gets better from here- Clarkie’s is by far the most strangely enticing brunch stop in Orlando.

I asked for coffee and I got it in a cup advertising the Korean Christian diocese of Orlando. I was still gawking at the dollar-shop décor/crap festooned over the shelves when I ordered a Power Breakfast Special- eggs, bacon, sausage, biscuits and gravy. Though the food spread was typical of any breakfast joint, the gravy was especially notable. It was perfect; not too thick, not too runny- a golden balance between the two extremes packed with flavor. On a separate occasion I asked the server (apparently the only server at Clarkie’s) to surprise me with anything he recommended. A fresh but modest Rueben sandwich appeared and was quickly devoured. The rye bread was on the thinner side than normal but definitely appended it’s aroma to the meat sandwiched within.

The proprietor, Miss Lee, is a character in her own right. Suspicious and cold at first, she quickly warms up and even pulls a seat to have a conversation with return customers. With her strange propensity to repeatedly check the restrooms (I’m guessing for broke/homeless hiding customers), she also happens to possess a secret delicacy for Korean-savvy people. Just ask for some of her homemade Kimchi- a pickled cabbage condiment/ingredient ubiquitous in Korean cuisine. Her Kimchi is semi-spicy with strong vinegar and fermented notes in between crunchy cabbage leaves. I recommend you try it with any entrée- besides, it’s free.
I was happily tingled with Clarkie’s. I must thank my companion for spotting it in the first place. It only goes to show you that ambiance doesn’t necessarily have to translate into pompous extravagance… it can be ugly-beautiful. And just as awesome.

IN A NUTSHELL- An absurd atmosphere with hearty food for a very cheap bite. Say hello to Miss Lee and appreciate her eccentricities as you dine. This place is so local (even within their own neighborhood), so non-trendy, and so far from pretentious. Go to Clarkie’s for a real bite of local dives.