Sugarland is a country music band. For their namesake, if they performed at Four Rivers, it would be ironic.
Yes, sweet would be the word for Four Rivers. As Texas barbeque goes, this doesn’t sound far from precision. However, I keep wondering if Dixie Sugar is a business partner in this enterprise. In other words, can they use a little LESS sugar? The main course was a premonition of pre-dessert. Here, diabetics should be trespassed.
Moving forward, in my opinion, the proof of the barbeque is in the pork. For lunch, the Southern Pulled Pork Sandwich demanded my attention (and money). With the option of two sides, I wound up actually ordering three- fried pickles, collard greens, and the baked beans (another very telling item). The place is set like a traditional bbq shack where you come inside to order and eat out on the porch communally. I ordered and went outside with my tray to find a seat. Alas, lunchtime is not seating friendly as cunning office workers reserve 6 seats in advance for their water-cooler cronies that were still in line ordering.
When I finally found a spot, I sank my teeth into the baked beans first. It was sweet. Too sweet. I understand the concept of sweet baked beans but I conjured up my dentist having a field day with my cavities if I had them every day. Bits of pulled bits of pork with black peppercorn and onion; it also packs a latent spice-heat that builds one spoonful after another.
The fried pickles were dynamite. To date, they’re the best I’ve ever had! Sour and salty, the pickle had a crunch that was outmatched by an uber-crunchy batter. The collard greens were also good. Small chunks of pork (not pulled) appended great flavor to the partially-rendered collards. Deliciously hearty and well balanced, it was also slightly… sweet.
Finally, onto the sandwich- it was good but not the best. The pulled pork was judiciously moist, juicy, and flavorful. But again, it’s the sweetness that takes this sandwich over the edge. Sugar, I found was a trailing similarity in all the dishes except the pickles. Even the sauces were sweet (your choice of sweet, and sweet-spicy).
IN A NUT SHELL: Don’t go for the hype, but go if you expect sweet barbeque. A handy bulldog will help seat-hogging office workers become more obliging in offering up a place to sit during lunch hours (lol). First timers should try the cornbread salad. Above all, don’t leave without some fried pickles in your hand and/or stomach- they may even convert pickle haters. Tell the proprietors to invest in glass domes for the cakes (yes, more sugar) they display to prevent flies from nibbling right at the counter.
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