Phở 88: A local food haunt

There is something to be said about Phở 88 when you are thinking about it more than ONCE in the SAME week. Some of my friends just don’t get it- what’s so special about this joint? And my answer to that can be pretty complex. But it probably stems from the fact that you have so many choices to chose from and I have been consistently happy (and sometimes elated) with the food.

All Vietnamese eateries are not created equal. This is why I’m not reviewing touristy Little Saigon first… I’ll take Phở 88 with their tiny little parking lot any day of the week. If you want servers to have lively conversations with you, go to the former. If you want some tasty food in a more spacious-looking environment, come here.

My accompanying friend this time doesn’t like seafood or things that are too spicy. In other words, my selections were slightly limited. So, I decided to try the Cơm Tấm Thịt Nướng (literally, ‘broken rice grilled pork’- #58 on the current menu) for $6.25, Mì Sợi Lớn Xào Rau Đậu Hủ (Egg Noodles with Tofu and Vegetables- #111) for $9.95, and Bò Nấu Lá Quế (a mixture of Beef and Vegetable sauté infused with Thai Basil- #160) for $9.50. Knowing their portion sizes from previous visits, I knew I didn’t have to order anything more.

They all arrived simultaneously- of which the Grilled Pork caught my eye like the blonde in a crowd of red-heads. You may laugh reading this, but broken rice may be an acquired taste- especially when your mind interprets broken rice as being something wrong. It came to no surprise when I researched this dish afterwards that Cơm Tấm was first used for cooking by impoverished farmers that didn’t let anything to waste. But like many other dishes over time (Coq au Vin, for example) it has become a popular mainstay. The grilled pork atop the rice could have been more generous but it was well-done. Slightly salty, semi-sweet, a little fatty, and, most importantly, not overcooked.

I also liked the Beef-vegetable sauté. However, the Thai Basil flavor was much, much more subdued than I imagined it to be. In addition to red bell pepper, a few leaves of Thai Basil , onions, and scallions (the jalapenos were omitted at my friend’s behest), soft pieces of bamboo shoots and straw mushrooms were also present. Overall, a good dish with delicate earthy flavors tied together with beef.

But it was the Tofu dish that let my friend down. He gave some promising insight that the tofu should have been cooked with the vegetables a bit further to properly absorb some of their flavors (tofu, after all, is rather bland). I, too, felt that the dish would have been more successful had the tofu risen up to the occasion. The Egg Noodles are not too THICK (I had envisioned a 1/4” width on them). Rather, they are slightly smaller than regular Fettuccini.

For spice lovers, you may find some of the food too subtle in flavor (notably the vegetarian options). You will be happy to know that each table at Phở 88 has a condiment rack comprising of- Chili sauce (think something like Sriracha), Hoisin (a necessary condiment when it comes to Vietnamese noodle soup) as well as the NOTORIOUS Nước Mắm (fish sauce)

which will be present in the CONCENTRATED FORM (the diluted form with vinegar, and lemon juice will be presented when main course comes out) on the spice rack and will resemble the soy sauce visually. A word of caution- if you don’t like fish, chances are you will not like the smell of this. For better or worse, it is a condiment with distinct flavor. I, for one, am digging it.

On a final note, I’d like to dedicate this review to our server- I’m sorry you didn’t introduce yourself but you did mention that you are thinking about going back to Vietnam to study classic Vietnamese culinary techniques. I wish you the very best in this endeavor.

IN A NUTSHELL: The Menu is VAST- at least 183 choices of appetizers and entrées alone at last count. First timers may gain appreciation without losing much money by taking advantage of their lunch time prices (everyday between 10a-4p). Be cool and stay ahead of the trend by trying the Sinh Tố Mít (a Jackfruit Milkshake)- this will probably be the next exotic fruit on everyone’s lips- for a measly $2.95. Or if you’re just plain brazen, the Bò Tái Chanh (a beef tartar of sorts) for $9.95 (it’s pretty good). Say hello to the old man that is selling some garden-grown vegetables and fruit right outside the door (we picked up a few Pumelos this time around- yum). Portion sizes are good- be careful not to over-order. Service is good- they may not speak with a perfect American click, but they are definitely reliable. The pretty girl at the counter is someone I went to high school with (go Panthers!). Maybe she’ll throw in a discount if you said that (lol).