Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Hawker’s South Asian Fare: Roti Canai… OMG, I die!

This place came to my attention immediately after it opened. It was the name that caught my attention: Hawker’s. And I thought to myself “Could it be?” So, it was only a matter of time before my mouth met their food. And as a former (and picky) hawker customer, I was really looking forward to it.

For individuals unfamiliar with the term, Hawkers are signature to Asian countries (and arguably, in many other parts of the world). They are street vendors who usually vocalize what’s being offered in a loud, aggressive format. Usually on self-drawn carts or makeshift stalls, they are the Asian version of a food truck (well, minus the truck). Hence the etymology of the word ‘Hawker’- from middle low German ‘hoken’, meaning ‘to peddle’ or ‘to bear on one’s back’. Typically, they only showcase a handful of cheap-but-delicious items that are often codependent in their recipes (either they utilize a similar list of ingredients or one item is part of another item’s creation). The Hawker Stand is an example of a classic business structure- delectable food leads to more money which results in a more lavish display of food, a bigger cart, and, ultimately, a permanent spot on the street where people use the eatery as place to rendezvous and spend even more money. In other words, if your food is awesome, you’ll rise to the top.

Luckily, the restaurant showcases more than just a handful of choices. But the small-plate concept and cheap prices remain. And now the math- Szechuan style wings $4, Vegetarian Summer Rolls $3, Satay Chicken Tacos $5, Roti Canai $3, Cantonese Ginger Chicken $4.50, and Malaysian Prawn Mee $6.

They were out of Hainanese sauce, so Szechuan happened to be a second choice. Five wings appeared as our appetizer and they were fairly small.
The unfortunate part, however, was that they weren’t spicy enough. When you think of Szechuan, the connotation is definitely chili heat- and this dish was toned down quite a few notches.
The Vegetarian Summer Rolls were fine with the standard fillings of vermicelli rice noodles, cabbage, carrots, and scallions. The adjoining peanut sauce was pleasantly on the sweet side.
The Satay Chicken Tacos were nothing exceptional. It was a mild mélange of flavors with no single note flying higher than the rest. The tacos desperately needed some acid, which a single wedge of lime atop a small portion of salsa thankfully provided.

The tide turned favorably when the Roti Canai arrived. It was CRIMINALLY DELICIOUS. Alternatively called Roti Chennai/Parata, it’s a Malaysian dish with Indian origins. The small portion of curry sauce with a lump of potato was stupendously addictive.
My stomach was instantly imprisoned by tasty lip smacks of curry intertwined with some SERIOUSLY FLAKY ROTI (see the adjoining short video clip of it at my blog). I could’ve easily made a fool of myself and licked the bowl clean. The curry was creamy and well balanced. A range of spices (cumin, coriander, and cinnamon to name a few) sang like a harmonious choir that elevated the dish into a synergetic stratosphere. In short, magic.

The Cantonese Ginger Chicken showed elegance in simplicity. Simple, ground ginger paste accompanied with perfectly moist sautéed chicken strips spelled Y-U-M.
Ginger paste, though usually used as a pre-cook marinade, worked well just as it was. On the other hand, the Prawn Mee was a toss-up. It was recently prepared and served. Hence, the ingredients were layered and presented just as the menu described. However, a slow cooked approach (as soups often have) would have intermingled the flavors of chicken, egg, chili sauce, and jumbo shrimp more successfully.

If this were back in Asia, I would’ve opted for the Hawker stand selling soup that had been simmering in a giant wok for hours rather than one that served a la minute.

When one of the co-owners, Kaleb Harrell, arrived for a quick interview, it came to no surprise to find out that the place is owned by people who have a lineage in the Hawker business. And the menu definitely speaks of the diversity in the ownership as well- Hong Kong natives, Northern Chinese, Malaysian, and Vietnamese bring the Asian diaspora to the restaurant’s table. I did manage to ask him about the soup and his responded that the chefs are still deliberating between themselves which technique should prevail. He also pointed out the detail in décor for the place was specific to the concept- right down the very tables styled with laminated Chinese newspapers (so reminiscent of eating food from a Hawker’s newspaper cone).

IN A NUTSHELL: Go for the Roti Canai. It’s great. The place is young and the owners are receptive to your suggestions- especially for a second location that they are planning in the works. Try one of the many Asian beers they serve bottled. The success of a traditional hawker stand is very physically evident- a long queue. And I’m happy to say that this concept has finally germinated in our very own backyard. Here’s to hoping for a long line at this joint.
Hawkers Asian Street Fare on Urbanspoon

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