Cotillion Southern Cafe- Southern shabby chic with overpriced entrées

Cotillion. How many times do you hear that word these days? Well, if you're in Wildwood, you will. It's on the lips of every white woman between the ages of 50-90. And if you happen to be in this demographic, the Cotillion Cafe may be a good pilgrimage for you. And if you're not, you better be on your best manners because you'll be in the company of them when you get there.

Needless to say, I don't fall in this demographic and I only ended up here because of the 'you so have to try this place' talk that some friends persuade you into. I acquiesced to the word-of-mouth because I am a huge fan of Southern food.

While at the Cotillion, reservations are absolutely a must. Wha', it just wouldn't be fittin' if you didn't. While service was on point for the entire experience, it seemed to me a very noticeable inconvenience to be accommodated during their lunch hour without one. Eventually, they were gracious enough to figure out a table after a few adjustments on their small dining room area. For lunch, we ordered Chicken and Waffles ($13.75), the Junkyard Sandwich ($11.75) and Miz Kathi's signature Fried Green Tomatoes as an appetizer ($9).

We were lucky to arrive when we did. Apparently the table that was split-off from ours (and literally 1.5 feet away) told us that they had to wait 45 mins for their food due to how busy the kitchen was. The fried green tomatoes were quite good when they arrived- hot and crispy, there were 8-9 discs of them nicely arranged around their in-house remoulade sauce. The batter had a mild seasoning of paprika and other scant dry spices that gave the tomatoes a hint of of crunchy complexity. It wasn't too spicy and neither was the sauce. All in all, their signature dish scored high points not only for authenticity but also for universal appeal.

The main course, however, left so much to desire. Let's start with the chicken and waffles. The waffles were limp and soggy. The tenders were coated in the same exact batter as the fried green tomatoes. More over, I couldn't get over the paltry portion sizes. Yes, it was accompanied with gravy with crumbled sausage in a dainty boat. However, it just couldn't even compare to what other restaurants put out for chicken and waffles- a nice big waffle with meaty, crispy chicken strips. Yes, I ordered 'lunch portion size'. But does that warrant this price tag? Unfortunately not. I'd have paid more for a better, generous product. But then again, I looked around the room and thought, perhaps for the retired ladies, something soft to chew, smaller-portioned but with a posh price point was what this restaurant was catering to. I'll stop while I'm ahead.

The Junkyard dog was alright. Noteworthy? Not really- a standard medley of sautéed peppers, onions, bacon, accompanied by a borderline bland sausage. What was really annoying was the side dish glaring at me from the plate in all its puniness- the green bean casserole. In all my years of blogging, this dish brought about a lot of ire especially when it comes to the reputation of Southern food. Firstly, the portion size was less than 3oz- probably enough to fit inside a small jar of baby food. Secondly, never in my entire life have I seen a green bean casserole soaked with that much butter. Thirdly, and probably the worst offender, the casserole was so bland. I was hoping to taste something beyond the salt and fat. But those two flavors murdered the flavors of the vegetable and anything else that was in that baby jar.  I was trying to justify this entire debacle, but then I caught myself- why am I justifying this when I should honestly be enjoying it?

In a pleasant turn of events, we ordered the Hoochie Momma pie ($6.95). For it's unabashed title, this Chess pie with pecans was devine. Finally, my salvation came during dessert! The portion size was generous, flavors sweeter than a sack of sugar, replete with pecans, and a flaky crust. This dessert was a life saver (and stomach-filler) and I knew then and there that at least the baker at Miz Kathi's Cotillion knows how to do Southern right. The rest of the kitchen can head back to Kansas.

IN A NUTSHELL: This restaurant prides itself on making everything from scratch. Service is good but stressed during busy timeframes. The room layout can feel cramped and there is a lot of tasteful (antique milk glass dishes) and not-so-tasteful décor (ordinary displayed aprons and mittens for $25+ each? Please stop preying upon senile patrons) along the walls including the restrooms. The place screams old lady even though I wish it didn't (especially when you have items on the menu like 'Junkyard', 'Hoochie Momma', and 'Redneck Nachos'). Unfortunately for me, my social security checks haven't kicked in yet so I'll take a rain check on food and probably have the dessert to-go. Food times may be a problem depending on the time of day. Though the salads are generous in their portion sizes and there is attention given to food presentation in dainty serviceware, the rest of the food has a disparaging contrast between their price point, quantity, and quality. Just because it's Southern food with simple ingredients doesn't make it acceptable for the food to be bland or floppy. Side dishes need to be presented differently and substantially. True craftsmanship is only derived when you can make simplicity sing and the Cotillion missed the mark on this for the most part.

Blue Dolphin Café: Great service, satisfying food

Blue Dolphin seemed to be the only option besides the hotel’s continental breakfast in the immediate area. What first came to my mind was what a monopoly on the am shift this business had… it only occurred to me much later that I was hoping for some good food too.

I split a bacon-and-cheese omelet for breakfast (I wasn’t particularly hungry) with some additional whole-wheat toast, orange juice, skim milk, and coffee. The omelet was excellent! More on the verge of a frittata, it was ridiculously thick and packed with strips of bacon.

As the fork sliced through the contraption, melted cheddar cheese oozed out of it which became an instant feast for the eyes and the stomach. The omelet, at $8.50, came with a side of chopped potato wedges and whole-wheat toast. Satisfying? Yes. Under $20 for the bill around St. Armand’s eateries? Excellent.

IN A NUTSHELL: It seems the Blue Dolphin gets it’s adequate share of tourists much like the rest of Lido Key and St. Armand’s Circle. However, it also seems to be a place of congregation for the locals that live in the few houses that still remain on the island. Customer service at the Blue Dolphin was great and it seemed all the severs work together to ensure that. Blue Dolphin is ONLY open for breakfast and lunch. For a cheap and satisfying breakfast go there.

Green Lemon Café: Amanda’s smart business move

The Green Lemon Café’s sign only advertises as “Café” in the strip mall next to Tijuana Flats. Yet, you should go here instead of the latter. It’s a small (and a bit cramped) place. However, what you’re surrendering for luxury, you are more than making up for some tasty crepes.

Service is fast-food style. You hunt down a menu at the counter, browse, and order with the person at the register. You find a seat, and food is eventually dropped off to you. My companion and I ordered 4 different crepes- the Norwegian, the Lemon Delight, a Raspberry Chicken Crepe, and a Prosciutto Fig Crepe.
The Norwegian was by far the most daring. Garnished with a dusting of paprika, a mélange of red onions, capers, and salmon on a whole wheat crepe was nothing short of sublime. The way all these ingredients came together made me realize that this place really takes their craft seriously. The salmon was fresh and non-fishy smelling- even more reason why you should give this crepe a shot when you go to the Green Lemon.

The Lemon Delight could only be explained as a perfect after-dinner crepe. Highly fragrant with beautiful lemon overtones, this crepe is like a seductive siren that lures you until you find your nose almost crashing into the plate. Exceptional sweetness with a mild tart finish, this crepe is married with lighter-than-air whipped cream.

Raspberry and Chicken- at first thought this crepe was not for me. From the moment my companion ordered this one, I wasn’t really looking forward to even sampling it. For some reason, I’m not a big fan of sweet meats (the only exception being ham). Yet, this was the surprise of the course. In my opinion, it was the thinly sliced pieces of chicken that made this dish successful. There was just the right amount of meat texture that complimented the raspberry jam. The addition of cheese in the mix bonded two very different flavors into a heavenly combination. So good was this crepe, that it has converted me into appreciating sweet-meat concoctions. You’ve got to try this too- it will make a believer out of you.

Alas, the disappointment- the Prosciutto Fig. It was… bad. Astringent and oddly savory, you would think this one would be a shoe-in on a white crepe but it left a very unpleasant aftertaste. The problem was the prosciutto wasn’t fresh- the odd smell of it completely foiled the dish. Weird, but true.

After all was said and done, we had an opportunity to talk to one of the proprietors- Amanda. A restless woman, she quickly asked how was everything while her eyes flitted about processing about five other things in her mind. She mentioned something about Saturday & Sunday brunches between 10am- 2pm and extending her Café’s selections to flat breads while offering beer and wine on the menu as well. When I asked about how she came about opening a crepe concept restaurant, her response was a smart business-like one: she looked around the Winter Park area and decided that crepes were a niche market that people would come specifically to her for. And crepes she does well… how do you like 'em apples?... er, crepes?

IN A NUTSHELL- Enjoy some great crepe concoctions modestly priced. Try the European blend coffee that has a strong, mildly-bitter finish as a complement to any of your crepes. Say hi to Amanda and tell her to relax even if the store rent is killing her. After all, she is brains behind this very delectable business. All crepes are made with white or wheat batter, so choose carefully what you pair your toppings with. This is a good place to stop when you’re in the heart of Winter Park looking for a sensible and satisfying snack.