Feb 2017: An Indian Feast

Good friends + lots of food = a memorable time. 

Nothing succeeds quite like excess.

Half-n-Half: tart strawberry puree with sweet lassi spiced with green cardamom

Vegetable 'pakoras'. Usually the vegetables are cut-up in same sizes and then mixed together. I preferred to keep (and fry) them separately. Served with warm sweet-n-sour tamarind sauce.

Signature cocktail: pureed mango, club soda, blueberries, mint, and optional alcohol (in this instance, Tito's vodka)

Plain and garlic naan varieties. Requested by popular demand!

Tomato rice speckled with lightly fried onion seeds.

Chicken tikka masala.

Hariyali shrimp: fresh fennel, cilantro, mustard seeds, onion, garlic, and ginger.

Saag Paneer: large pieces of fried paneer cubes in creamed spinach

Rajmah masala: a vegan red kidney bean dish

Gulab jamun: Milk curds (precisely, 'chena') deep fried and then soaked in syrup

2016 Thanksgiving dinner

First Thanksgiving without Dad. 😢 So we celebrated his memories with food that he would have loved. Dad was always fond of my cooking caliber. Apparently my brother is too.

Lagan Nu Custard- Wedding Custard

Crispy Okra

Saas Ni Macchi (Bottom) and Lamb Dhansak (Top)

Kachumber (Bottom), Browned Rice with Caramalized Onions (Center), Pappadums piled high (Top Right) and Lagan Nu Achar (in between rice and pappadum) which is basically a sweet Carrot Relish

Raga Restaurant, Bar, Lounge- Part Deux

Rarely do I review a restaurant twice. I am writing about Raga for a second time (the first one has been made on my blog a few weeks previous to this). You might say that I have a soft spot for this establishment or that I really want this place succeed. Either way, you'd be right.

I'm sick and tired of Orlando Indian restaurants being pigeonholed into two different categories: one being a horrible, hole-in-the-wall, with seedy, questionable hygiene practices and the other being too-exotic, unfriendly, and unapproachable to the masses. It's high time Americans got on the bandwagon and made Indian food their new Italian. The U.K. made it their #1 cuisine- so, why can't we at least give it a good try?

Raga seems to be a different breed- good locale, decent service, fine-dining, and a rather (for now) pristine atmosphere. All things that typically work in favor of any burgeoning business. So, I had to go back and give them another shot.

This time around, I intentionally tried a completely different set of food options to see if there would be a difference at all- Peppery Mushrooms (a 'Chef's Signature' item-$16), Nilgiri Tahr Curry ($14), Paneer Elaichi Pasanda ($14), and to round-off the experience a Gulmohar Naan ($4) and Mango Lassi ($3).

The Peppery Mushrooms were with onions and chillies in a peppery soy sauce (just as described on the menu- WOO-HOO!) and they were sublimely addictive. High notes of salt and crisp, lightly sauteed vegetables matched perfectly with the undercurrents of heat from the black pepper. Scallions and cilantro complimented the nutty, earthy bite of crunchy, batter-fried mushrooms. Wonderful in it's umami flavor, it was appropriately highlighted as a signature item. Well done.

The Paneer Elaichi Pasanda was made with 'home-made' paneer (a fact that I can neither confirm nor deny) simmered in a creamy, honey-laced, tomato gravy. The description was close to what was served in front of me- volatile cardamom wafts cutting through the air between the fork and the nose was very tantalizing. Except, the sweetness of the honey didn't come through. Maybe it was eclipsed by the inherent sweetness of the vegetables and the cheese? Not sure. Regardless, this dish didn't sing Old Delhi- it read more like a fusion dish that some people might especially like when they are first introduced to Indian cooking.

The Nilgiri Tahr curry was described as being 'garden fresh vegetables' prepared in a south Indian style with mint and coconut and it was very close to that. Carrots, peas, potatoes, cilantro and even a few cubes of paneer bobbed above the dark greenish-brown curry. The only thing that was apparent and unlike the Paneer Elaichi Pasanda was that this sauce was probably put together (a little coconut chutney here, a little curry sauce there) minutes after the order was put in- rather than something that develops deeper flavor profiles when cooked longer on the stove. Nevertheless, if that was the objective of the dish, then the chefs executed it well.

The Gulmohar Naan was described to be 'stuffed with nuts and raisin paste'. Minced Almonds were present but I barely could taste the raisin paste. Rather, the Naan sang of maraschino cherries that dotted the interior frequently and blotted the bread deep pink wherever they were. Again, not something that was described and not what I was expecting. Did it ruin the bread? Not really, but maraschino cherries should be reserved for culinary 101- remember, these heavily pickled (not to mention chemically dyed) fruit are food-safe, but not exactly the healthiest things on the planet.

In a bizarre flip-flop, the Mango Lassi was rich, thick, and creamy. It even tasted like adequate mango puree was in it- a far cry from the thin, watery Plain Lassi I had a few weeks prior. This leads me to believe that this restaurant may be suffering from finding it's stride in standardizing it's food product-  from table to table as well as day by day. Also, there is a lackadaisical departure from what is promised in the description of the menu (what the customer anticipates his money is going towards) and what really appears on the waiters tray. Again, another chronic problem that a lot of Indian and other restaurants here in Orlando tend to be plagued by.

IN A NUTSHELL: This experience was much better than the previous one. The service was attentive on both occasions- and maybe more so this time around when the server noticed that I was taking notes as I ate every single dish. There was no debacle near the bar as I had seen before and Rajiv pleasantly kept himself productive and unmemorably engrossed in FOH duties. If Raga leaps beyond the chronic problems of menu inconsistency and staying loyal to what they promise to offer, they will strike a vein in the heart of Orlando that most would akin to gold.

Raga Restaurant, Bar, and Lounge

I wanted to write something about Raga- the relatively new Indian fine-dining experience on Restaurant Row in Dr. Phillips. I had first visited this place a few weeks after it first opened- when it was only functioning in the evening for dinner, but I waited off on a report so Raga’s timeline was a little longer than a hot second.

You should know right off the bat that Raga is indeed one of the prettier establishments – in fact, THE prettiest establishment when it comes to décor, ambiance, place-settings, lighting, and food presentation. This has not changed since the beginning of its opening. However, there are some things that have changed.

I tried the following dishes this time- Raj Kachori ($6), Aloo Pardesi ($10), Lasooni Saag Paneer ($14), Chandni Korma ($14), Chatpata Naan ($3) and for a libation, a Sweet Lassi ($3).
 

The Raj Kachori was described on the menu as being “stuffed with sprouts” but there was none in the appetizer. It was medium-spiced with a slight kick towards the end. A very time-sensitive dish once prepared, black garbanzo beans, yogurt, mint/green chutneys softened the crisp fried wafer to what was a soggy, muddled, appetizer rather than a crunchy, layered one. Nevertheless, it was tangy, tasty, and not overly seasoned. The Aloo Pardesi was wonderful and promised all the ingredients that were listed on the menu (potato barrels stuffed with cashews, mixed vegetables, served on the bed of sautéed vegetables with touches of mint-basil dipping sauce). The raw slivers of red radish skewed the profile to bitter and I just wish there was more chutney or something moist since the dish as a whole was very dry two bites into it. In short, I was looking for some moistness in the Pardesi and a little more dryness in Kachori.

Saag paneer was a superb concoction- a wonderfully medium-spiced sauce intertwined with soft paneer cubes and then further garnished with shredded paneer. The sauce itself was a supremely smooth herb purée with great notes of herbaceous spinach, ginger, garlic, and cumin in a well-balanced recipe. Chandni Korma with its vegetables (some type of squash and cauliflower) in a creamy yogurt sauce with dried apricots and almonds was divine. The oil in the dish started to separate from the sauce mid-meal. However, the smooth flavor from all those wonderful Indian spices was very soothing. The Chatpata Naan was lack-luster. Basil, which the menu described, was absent in it and no matter how finely one minces and spreads cilantro, the two do not taste the same. Bottom line- it was a garlic naan with sparse and minute green flecks that was meant to substitute for the real thing. The sweet Lassi was pure yogurt, sugar, and water and not as thick and rich as other establishments serve.

 

IN A NUTSHELL: Food fare is standard here that will appeal to most. The prices are competitive with a good range of variation that goes beyond the standard selections that you would find in another Indian restaurant.  The food presentation and the ambiance is probably the best for Indian restaurants in town. The service was attentive. Most (if not all) of the servers here are non-Indian so please overlook that they cannot pronounce food items correctly. Indians were reserved for the kitchen and the FOH maître d'- and this is not exactly a good thing because a large party of smarmy men were seen trying to sneak in their own alcohol without waiting to be sat and then pulling their server aside to bribe him away from a corkage fee (Rajiv should have handled this better and showed them the door as other patrons were looking on to see what is and isn’t permissible at Raga). Only time will tell if Raga will flourish or perish- but it is my hope that fine dining standards are adhered to- on the menu as well as on the floor.

Hawker’s South Asian Fare: Roti Canai… OMG, I die!

This place came to my attention immediately after it opened. It was the name that caught my attention: Hawker’s. And I thought to myself “Could it be?” So, it was only a matter of time before my mouth met their food. And as a former (and picky) hawker customer, I was really looking forward to it.

For individuals unfamiliar with the term, Hawkers are signature to Asian countries (and arguably, in many other parts of the world). They are street vendors who usually vocalize what’s being offered in a loud, aggressive format. Usually on self-drawn carts or makeshift stalls, they are the Asian version of a food truck (well, minus the truck). Hence the etymology of the word ‘Hawker’- from middle low German ‘hoken’, meaning ‘to peddle’ or ‘to bear on one’s back’. Typically, they only showcase a handful of cheap-but-delicious items that are often codependent in their recipes (either they utilize a similar list of ingredients or one item is part of another item’s creation). The Hawker Stand is an example of a classic business structure- delectable food leads to more money which results in a more lavish display of food, a bigger cart, and, ultimately, a permanent spot on the street where people use the eatery as place to rendezvous and spend even more money. In other words, if your food is awesome, you’ll rise to the top.

Luckily, the restaurant showcases more than just a handful of choices. But the small-plate concept and cheap prices remain. And now the math- Szechuan style wings $4, Vegetarian Summer Rolls $3, Satay Chicken Tacos $5, Roti Canai $3, Cantonese Ginger Chicken $4.50, and Malaysian Prawn Mee $6.

They were out of Hainanese sauce, so Szechuan happened to be a second choice. Five wings appeared as our appetizer and they were fairly small.

The unfortunate part, however, was that they weren’t spicy enough. When you think of Szechuan, the connotation is definitely chili heat- and this dish was toned down quite a few notches.

The Vegetarian Summer Rolls were fine with the standard fillings of vermicelli rice noodles, cabbage, carrots, and scallions. The adjoining peanut sauce was pleasantly on the sweet side.

The Satay Chicken Tacos were nothing exceptional. It was a mild mélange of flavors with no single note flying higher than the rest. The tacos desperately needed some acid, which a single wedge of lime atop a small portion of salsa thankfully provided.

The tide turned favorably when the Roti Canai arrived. It was CRIMINALLY DELICIOUS. Alternatively called Roti Chennai/Parata, it’s a Malaysian dish with Indian origins. The small portion of curry sauce with a lump of potato was stupendously addictive.

My stomach was instantly imprisoned by tasty lip smacks of curry intertwined with some SERIOUSLY FLAKY ROTI (see the adjoining short video clip of it at my blog). I could’ve easily made a fool of myself and licked the bowl clean. The curry was creamy and well balanced. A range of spices (cumin, coriander, and cinnamon to name a few) sang like a harmonious choir that elevated the dish into a synergetic stratosphere. In short, magic.

The Cantonese Ginger Chicken showed elegance in simplicity. Simple, ground ginger paste accompanied with perfectly moist sautéed chicken strips spelled Y-U-M.

Ginger paste, though usually used as a pre-cook marinade, worked well just as it was. On the other hand, the Prawn Mee was a toss-up. It was recently prepared and served. Hence, the ingredients were layered and presented just as the menu described. However, a slow cooked approach (as soups often have) would have intermingled the flavors of chicken, egg, chili sauce, and jumbo shrimp more successfully.

If this were back in Asia, I would’ve opted for the Hawker stand selling soup that had been simmering in a giant wok for hours rather than one that served a la minute.

When one of the co-owners, Kaleb Harrell, arrived for a quick interview, it came to no surprise to find out that the place is owned by people who have a lineage in the Hawker business. And the menu definitely speaks of the diversity in the ownership as well- Hong Kong natives, Northern Chinese, Malaysian, and Vietnamese bring the Asian diaspora to the restaurant’s table. I did manage to ask him about the soup and his responded that the chefs are still deliberating between themselves which technique should prevail. He also pointed out the detail in décor for the place was specific to the concept- right down the very tables styled with laminated Chinese newspapers (so reminiscent of eating food from a Hawker’s newspaper cone).

IN A NUTSHELL: Go for the Roti Canai. It’s great. The place is young and the owners are receptive to your suggestions- especially for a second location that they are planning in the works. Try one of the many Asian beers they serve bottled. The success of a traditional hawker stand is very physically evident- a long queue. And I’m happy to say that this concept has finally germinated in our very own backyard. Here’s to hoping for a long line at this joint.

Bombay Café: Cheap, above-average, and tasty

Who knew you'd find a good eatery tucked in the furthest corner of a hallway in an Indian Plaza? At Bombay Café, you'll find the locals- either taking a respite after some grocery shopping, or just in for a quick, cheap Indian bite.

Look, this is not a fine dining concept. You have to take a menu upon entering, walk up to the front counter, order, take a numbered stanchion to an open table, and wait for your order to be dropped off. If you want to be served hand-and-foot, this place is NOT for you.I ordered a few dishes to sample a variety of their offerings- Pani-Puri ($3.95), Paneer Pakora Chaat ($5.99), Mysore Masala Dosa ($7.95), and the hard-to-find Gobi Paratha ($3.50). In retrospect, I'm glad I stopped from ordering more since it was more than enough food.

For standard Bombay-style cuisine, the Pani-puri was the right choice. 8 puris (small hollow, fried, crisp dough spheres) were presented with a sufficient amount of a garbanzo-potato mixture and a side bowl of sweet-and-spicy water. A triad of chutneys- mint-cilantro, tamarind, and a mildly spicy orange-colored one were promptly set beside the appetizer. I like assembly of this dish a lot- you have to deftly fill the water inside the hole of the puri and gobble the entire thing in one fell swoop. Yum. The garnish of Sev (thin fried lentil noodles) and cilantro was perfection.

The Paneer Pakoras were definitely a toss-up. Some people would prefer a thicker piece of Paneer in it. Others would be content with how spongy the batter was that soaked up the flavors surrounding it. But I did feel that this was consistent with a street food order- paneer, in India, especially if you're not in the North, can be a higher priced item. At Bombay Café, their pakoras have a scant slice of paneer. About 4 large pakoras were quartered and topped with curried garbanzos, yogurt, tomatoes, and chopped onions. It was good. The side condiments are integral to this dish. So when you go, don't forget to add the chutneys.

The Mysore Masala Dosa was okay. The dosa (a sort of fermented lentil crepe) needed to be crisper- a simple technique of cooking it over the skillet for a slight longer would have scored higher on execution. The flavors were a little subdued- especially of the masala that was smeared onto the crepe. I have a feeling that this is the orange chutney that was part of the condiment triad. The turmeric-laced mashed potatoes, lentils, and green peas that were tucked inside the rolled-up crepe were standard. So was the accompanying side of Sambhar (curried vegetable stew) that you get to dip the crepe in. However, I found myself skipping over the crepe to get to these tastier items.

The Gobi Paratha was intriguing since I've never tried one. A little bland for my taste, I realized that gobi (cauliflower) doesn't have much flavor to begin with. The gobi inside this flat bread is minced ultra-fine with a touch of garlic and cilantro. A side order of Ghee (clarified butter) made the paratha more enjoyable. Next time, I will pair this with a main-course curry item.

After lunch, I did have the opportunity to talk to the owner, Joy Kakkanad, who mentioned that they are known for their Indo-Chinese specialties. He also mentioned that his restaurant's main goal is to deliver speedy, minimal service with flavorful food and highly competitive price points. Mr. Kakkanad, I think you have a good concept and I think your flavors are successful in capturing the Bombay dine-and-dash scene.

Oh, and a word of caution- these are Bombay flavors. Hence, the name of the place. Not Delhi, Kolkata, or Chennai. I get perplexed at self-entitled people that request (like this particular 'special' man in front of me at the counter) "authentic Gujrati style" and the equally profane "make it medium-spicy but not too spicy." I suppose the cook had to stop everything and have a little interview with him about exactly how much chilly would be perfect in return for a STAGGERING SUM OF $6 from his precious little wallet. GET REAL AND GET SOME ETTIQUETTE. If you don't like the food, just don't go back. You're making the person behind you (viz., me) look like I just stepped off the boat with you.

IN A NUTSHELL: A great way of introducing your friends to Indian cuisine with a Bombay flare (which happens to be the second most-populous city in the WORLD). If they don't like it, you didn't bust your wallet over them. For 2 appetizers, 1 main course, and 1 bread, my bill came out to be $22 with tax. And they were big enough to be split between 2 people! And we couldn't finish all of it! The décor is tastefully done but don't expect 5-star service. Do expect a good price point for what you're being offered.

Cress Restaurant: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Or should I sequentially say the bad (app.), the good (main), and the downright ugly (dessert)? Cress is a swank little place in downtown Deland. With deep blues and tasteful furniture, the décor of this place has a semi-formal feel that pleases the crowd with refined tastes.

Upon being seated, we were offered a watermelon Gazpacho amuse-bouche. With subtle tomato sweetness and a mild pepper finish, it was good. You would think that this would be a sweet version of a classic, but the watermelon wasn’t ripe- hence, I felt the watermelon crunch without the obvious watermelon flavor. It didn’t detract- rather, I thought it was smart.

For the appetizer, my companion and I simultaneously asked for the butternut squash “Ravioli” as it was clearly the most unusual. Supposedly stuffed with grilled fig (it was lost in the dish- more of it would have been a very good thing), the butternut slices were tough and very chewy. If it weren’t for the cheese sauce drizzled over it, the poorly executed dish of improper batter-and-fry would have failed completely. To scrounge for a silver lining, the fried sage and walnuts were sensible garnishes.

The tenderloin of Ostrich beckoned my tongue towards main course. With mushroom and thyme grits, blackberry demiglace, and parsnip crisps, the plate was replete with a kaleidoscope of flavors. The decadent grits were cooked perfectly and complemented the meatiness of the Ostrich by not only adding smoothness but also layering aromas. With seasonal pea tendrils as an added garnish, can we say this dish was DELICIOUSLY COHESIVE? The demi was not spicy and reminded me that this is one of those moments when you realize that one can be so creative with vegetables. The Ostrich was moist and juicy. For beginners, Ostrich tastes like a blend between chicken liver and beef. All the characters in the dish worked as a delightful symphony of color, texture, and taste.

For dessert, I ordered flan. What appeared before us certainly wasn’t. Seemingly cooked by an amateur, it was too-burnt and semi-sweet. Most awkwardly for a restaurant that takes pride in being chic, it was presented with a rounded edge (from the baking dish it was pried out of, presumably) still present. Cress, please specify that this is a savory version- else, you might get some very insulting looks from people that were expecting the sweeter Latin kind. Above all, exercise some continuity in your dinner and dessert presentations.

IN A NUTSHELL: The chef cooks Ostrich well. He also has a few standard Indian curry options (Tuesday night is ‘curry night’) when half the party wants Indian while the other doesn’t. The atmosphere is casual formal. The service is good but the food requires some double-checking before it leaves the kitchen. Bring your own fork- the fancy one they had isn’t very friendly to the fingers.

Woodlands: Cheap bite, unimpressive otherwise

Woodlands. Just look at it: On S. Orange Blossom Trail a few blocks away from the nearest strip club, a signature-ugly shade of green painted building with an uninviting front door plastered with print-outs of their lunch buffet price and equally-ugly orange colored "Yes We're Open" sign. Yet, this is where some local Indians go. It's my personal belief that customers have selective vision- in this case, they don't care about anything but a cheap, vegetarian bite.

Prior to the visit, I had to check their online website for a little homework for what I wanted to eat. When I arrived, I was happy to encounter an on-site menu which was much larger with many more options. I decided to try what I deemed would denote tasty Indian food- the standard Idli, and a Dosa- more specifically, the Mysore masala dosa. To finish things off, I wanted to try their Madras paysam for dessert.

The Mysore masala dosa was okay... I just wished the proprietor had trained the Latinos cooking in the kitchen the flavor rather than just the technique of the dish. The unfamiliarly bland masala inside the dosa left me wondering if this is a Spanish version of the dish. The accompanying idli and sambhar were okay. The idli should've been soft as a cloud when freshly prepared, but you could tell that it wasn't straight out of the steamer. {{I don't hold this point against the establishment, because, from first hand experience, I know how quickly the flavor of an Idli changes as it cools. It would be absurd of me to expect a dive to make custom-order idlis}}. On another note, I especially appreciated the chunks of garlic in their version of sambhar. They were like floating spice bombs.

However, the entree wasn't cohesive because their flavors were off. I didn't feel like lifting the spoon repeatedly towards my mouth- in other words, I didn't love what I was eating. Add insult to injury, it made me feel I should've have opted for their lunctime buffet instead- at least I could've found something on there I would've liked and it would have worked out to be better price too. However, the portion size of the entree was large. I found a silver lining in that. When an employee said that they were out of Madras Paysam, I didn't complain because my stomach was too busy with what I had already eaten.

Service was sub-par. A pitcher of water was promptly put on our table and after we placed our order, we were forgotten. We were a party of 3- my friends quickly succumbed to the spices and I had to hunt down an employee and ask him for a refill on the water.

IN A NUTSHELL- Go for the cheap eat. Don't expect perfection- with the service or the flavors. It's a vegetarians roughage stop.